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by ^dWQirds(?oborl5 



ESTABLISHED A.D.I 859 




ALKER#lKOTPiERS, 



SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. 

We do a General BANKING Business and solicit accounts of merchants, 
mining companies and country dealers. 

Our facilities for collecting are the best, having correspondents in nearly 
every town in this and adjoining Territories. 

DRAW EXCHANGE ON ALL THE LEADING CITIES OF 

GREAT BRITAIN, GERMAN EMPIRE, SPAIN, FRANCE, SWITZERLAND 

IRELAND, ITALY, AUSTRIA, HOLLAND, SWEDEN, 

DENMARK, RUSSIA, BELGIUM, NORWAY. 



AMERICAN CORRESPONDENTS: 



NEW YORK, 

CHICAGO, 

St. LOUIS, 

OMAHA, 

SAN FRANCISCO, 

DENVER, 



Importers' and Traders' National Bank. 

- - - First National Bank, 

State Savings Association. 

Omaha National Bank. 

Bank of California. 

German National Bank. 



WALKER BROTHERS, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. 



WHOLESALE AND RET.\IL DEALERS IN 



f RY lOODS, IDTIONS, CLOTHING, 



CENTS' FURNISHING GOODS, 



CLOTHING HDLISE FURNISHINGB, BDDTB AND SHDEB, Etc. 



(ESTADLLSHED A. D. 1859) 



♦^WHOLESSLE GROCERS^ 



SALT LAKE CITY. UTAH 



alt ta\{e City 



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©HE IXAI^BSIDE gl^ESS: F{. F{. DOWnELIjEY AND SONS, 142-146 CDONI^OB Si"., SHIGAGO. 



PREFACE 



In compiling the manuscript for the following pages, I have made liberal ex- 
tracts from an article published in The Continent and entitled " By-ways of 
Utah," which I wrote some months ago. The illustrations also are taken from the 
same magazine, and for the original photographs from which the drawings were 
made I am indebted to Mr. C. R. Savage, the successful photographer of Utah. 
I am also under obligations to Mr. H. L. A. Culmer, of Salt Lake City, for much 
information published in his guide-book, which is now out of print. 

It is impossible, with limited space, to describe as they deserve, the varied 
attractions of Utah. It is a country from which much is now expected, and 
present indications lead to the prediction, that in the near future the Territory will 
take high rank in the financial world. It is rich beyond question, and the climate 
insures a rapid growth of whatever may be planted. The people are industrious 
and energetic, and the advent of the Denver and Rio Grande Railway has stimulated 
to a still greater extent their ambition to make Utah a source of pride and 
wealth to all Americans. The Editor. 

(S) 




OLD MILL, AMERICAN FORK CANON. 



7- f ^-^s 



SHLT LAKE CITY AND UTHH BY-WHYS. 



By Edwards Roberts. 



®TAH, with its eighty-five thousand square miles of territory, has 
been less explored and less understood than almost any other 
section of our great West. Hampered in its growth by reason 
of its great isolation, the question was asked for a long time : " What 
good can come of the country ?" and no one seemed able to furnish 
a satisfactory answer. The fact that there were fertile valleys, fresh 
streams of water, large tracts of grazing land, rich deposits of gold, 
silver, copper and coal, was lost sight of. Utah was regarded merely 
as a territory situated in the midst of vast deserts, and filled with 
high mountains, alkali deserts, salt seas and arid plains. But during 
the past dozen years rapid progress has been made in every direc- 
tion, and the country is gradually becoming better known and appre- 
ciated. The Mormons and the Gentiles are revolutionizing the state 
of affairs, and Utah is on the verge of a new life. Railways are 
being built, new mines are being opened, the output of ore is increas- 
ing, new towns are founded, and the outside world has ceased to ask 
what good, but rather to say how much good, may come out of Utah. 
Nor is it strange that this change in the condition of things has 
occurred. The Territory is immensely rich, has a most beautiful and 
varied topography, and a climate which is delightful. The Wasatch 
mountains divide it into two nearly equal parts, and, with ranges of 
lesser height, form sheltered valleys, which are as productive as any 
in the world. If one were elevated above the country in a balloon, 
he would look down upon a varied scene. Extending north and 
south, with wooded slopes, high, snow - capped summits, and in- 
closing miniature lakes, valleys and forest-girded parks, would be 
seen the Wasatch range ; east of it, vast, treeless, arid and neglect- 



lo SALT LAKE CITY AXD UTAH BY- IV A VS. 

ed, would api^ear the desert lands ; and westward — a bright spot in 
the view — Salt Lake and Utah valleys would meet the gaze, lying 
like jewels between vast mountains, watered by lakes and threads of 
silvery streams, and cultivated until hardly a foot of ground remains 
without its waving grain and patches of garden pr(jduce. 

In the north of the Territory, too, one would see Ogden and 
Salt Lake City, the great mysterious Salt Lake, and isolated peaks 
"striking up the azure" with their pointed cones of ice and snow. 
Far to the south the valleys would be seen to merge into deep 
caiions, with huge rocks of vari-colored hues, down which hissing, 
troubled streams roar and run swift races. The eye would see 
changes in every direction — now a vale, now a forest ; here a lake, 
and again rounded hills and well-stocked fields. There would be 
Arctic regions, and others like Italy ; great banks of snow, and 
bright green pastures. In fact, from an elevation commanding 
all Utah, it would be seen at once that the country is singularly 
varied ; grand, and yet beautiful ; rugged, yet subdued ; arid, and 
yet fertile ; a network of mountains, valleys, plains and parks, 
from over and among which run or nestle clear streams, wide rivers 
and picturesque lakes. The air would vibrate, too, with the hum of 
industry ; the puff of the locomotive would be heard as it penetrated 
the wild gorges of the mountains or toiled in the valleys ; the factories 
and smelting works would break the stillness with their busy activ- 
ity, and in the higher fastnesses men would be seen at work digging 
precious treasures from their long seclusion. 

It is a pleasure to go to Utah now, for the great railways across 
the continent are supplied with every lu.xury imaginable. From San 
Francisco the Central Pacific road lands the traveler at Ogden, and 
from the Missouri river one may take either the Chicago, Burlington 
& Quincy, or the Atchison, Topeka «S: Santa Fe to Denver, the 
metropolis of Colorado. Both roads afford glimpses of scenery which 
is unlike that of other parts of our country, and which fascinates 
with its immensity. But at Denver, the most interesting part of the 
journey to Utah begins, and the route via the Denver (S: Rio Grande 
Railway is one which will be long remembered by all who have 
taken it. This railway has now become a trans-continental line and 
connecting link between Denver and the most important cities of 
Utah. While its branches still form a net-work over all Colorado, 



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SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 13 

the main line has been extended westward over snowy heights, 
through deep gorges, across plains and up fertile valleys to Ogden 
and the eastern terminus of the Central Pacific road. Between Ogden 
and Denver, and at all times within reach of the traveler, there exists 
a profusion of grand and beautiful scenery. There are mountains of 
every conceivable shape and size, broad valleys, foaming streams, and 
picturesque caiions. The topography changes with every mile ; now 
it is grandly beautiful, now soft and subdued ; here wild and chaotic 
in its confusion, and again Scotland-like, with low hills and verdant 
fields. The railway opens to civilization some of the richest districts 
of both the State and Territory. It has brought the Gunnison coun- 
try, with its mines, coal fields and farm lands along the Grand and 
Uncompahgre rivers, into direct communication with eastern markets, 
and made possible the development of eastern Utah, while the 
Wasatch mountains, and central valleys of that country are placed 
within easy reach of the prospector, the miner and the farmer. 

Seventy-five miles south of Denver, Colorado Springs is reached, 
a town which is already famous as a health resort of varied attrac- 
tions. It occupies the top of a gently sloping mesa, and rests nearly 
under the shadow of Pike's Peak. The streets, wide and shaded; the 
public squares, and the extended plains which roll away to the east, 
insure for the town a constant supply of fresh and invigorating air, 
while the high mountains in the west serve to protect the place from 
the harsh winds so trying to invalids. During the past year (1883) 
the new and elegantly appointed hotel known as The Antlers has been 
opened. It cost, with the furniture, ^150,000, and is one of the finest 
hotels in the West. The sanitary arrangements are the result of care- 
ful and particular attention, the purpose having been to build a hotel 
which should be entirely free from all malarial drawbacks. The 
furniture, selected by the present manager, A. A. Warren, is rich and 
appropriate. The view from the west balcony embraces the mount- 
ains, and snow-capped Pike's Peak, and eastward the prairies may 
be seen stretching far toward the east. Much has been done toward 
ornamenting the grounds, and there are decorated terraces and shaded 
walks. The hostelry is an ornament to the town, and the architecture 
is at once pleasing and imposing. Colorado Springs was designed at 
the first as a health resort, and is in the immediate vicinity of most 
beautiful scenic attractions. It has several banks, two daily papers, 



14 



SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-IVAYS. 



a large club house, and a college which offers courses of study under 
the ablest professors. The climate is exceptionally fine, and particu- 
larly efficacious in all pulmonary and miasmatic diseases. 

Five miles west of Colorado Springs is Manitou. This Saratoga 
of the West, as it is so often called, lies among the foot-hills of the 
Rocky mountains, and with its large hotels is already noted as a 
summer resort of varied attractions. There are several medicinal 
springs, rivaling those of its eastern namesake, and the scenic attrac- 
tions within the town, and in close pro.ximity to it, are among the 
most beautiful in the State. Williams' canon, Ute pass, the Garden 
of the Gods, Cheyenne cailon, Pike's Peak trail. Seven Lakes, Iron 
Springs, Monument Park, and Seven Falls are only a few of the many 
places to which tourists are attracted by the quaint grandeur which 
they severally possess. 

Returning to the main line again, one journeys southward to 
Pueblo, and leaving it, makes straight for the blue-tinted mountains 
which appear in the distance, and soon reaches the Royal gorge or 
Grand caiion of the Arkansas. W' hen the train first enters the gorge, 
the steep sides which shut out all rays of the sun are only moderately 
high, but before many minutes elapse they become grander, darker 
and taller, and press closer and closer together. Some of the pinna- 
cles tower three thousand feet above the track which is laid at their 
base, and rise from the darkness into light without a break in their 
steep sides. There are no trees or bushes clinging to them, and 
hardly a place in which a bird might rest. When half way through 
the caiion the cliffs press so hard upon one another that it seems as if 
the train must pay the penalty of its daring, aiTd be crushed beneath 
the frowning battlements. Everything is weird, wild, strange and 
terrible. Rolling with dull light down the perpendicular walls, which 
choke the narrow way, are tiny rivulets of water, which fall unheeded 
into the stream below ; there are dark crevices, massive boulders, and 
loud echoes from the river. Dante would have reveled here ; Rem- 
brandt would have gloried in the mystic shades. The traveler and 
the train are dwarfed into insignificance. Standing on the iron bridge 
which hangs suspended from the sides of the cahon, and over the 
river, the bravest man is silenced by the terrible beauty around him. 

Continuing westward from the gorge, passing Salida and Poncha 
Springs, the railway climbs up a narrow, brush-grown valley, and be- 



SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 15 

gins to ascend Marshall pass. The track doubles time and again on 
itself ; at one time the dull line of displaced earth marks the heights 
that are to be climbed, and anon the course already pursued is dis- 
played far below. Now one may gaze down the valley he was so 
lately treading ; and again may look far beyond, where Poncha rests, 
to the high ranges which stand in massive grandeur against the deep 
blue sky. Soon, however, one forgets to notice anything beyond his 
immediate reach, and is fully occupied in watching the busy engines 
mounting the steep grades by which they slowly but surely gain the 
summit. Snowy peaks tower above ; the air is cold and sharp ; there 
are barren ledges, and desolate wastes. Soon the summit is reached. 
Emerging from the long snow shed, which protects the track from the 
fierce snows of this region, the view which is offered is replete with 
grandeur and beauty. To the eastward, and separated by count- 
less summits which press their heads up at one from below, are the 
snow-covered, irregular shaped peaks of the Sangre de Cristo range. 
The sharp pinnacles extend in a long unbroken line, and are mar- 
shaled before one like trained soldiers of a giant army. Nearer at 
hand confusion reigns ; deep gulleys, forests, sparkling streams, and 
isolated mountain tops appear in every direction, while, overshadow- 
ing all, rises Mount Ouray, with its wooded .slopes, and gaunt, bare 
head. 

In the west, mellow and haze obscured, lies Gunnison county, 
with its valleys, mountains, and level plateaus exposed in all their 
grandeur and beauty. 

From Marshall pass to Gunnison, the road extends through 
fresh forests, and over cultivated meadows, until the mountain sur- 
rounded plateau in which the city stands is reached. At the Pacific 
slope metropolis of Colorado, an arm of the railway follows up 
Slate river to Crested Butte, the Pittsburgh of the State, and the 
main line continues down the Ciunnison river to the gorge which 
is known from its sombre coloring as the Black canon. This rock- 
bound chasm is wilder, more picturesque and grander even than the 
canon already encountered. The cliffs are fully as high, but their 
sides are broken into narrow shelves, where shrubs, trees, and clinging 
vines have found a foothold. In many places miniature cat- 
aracts leap from dizzy heights into the sea-green waters of the river, 
or, broken by projecting ledges, reach the bottom of the caiion in sil- 



i6 SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 

very spray. There is constant variety : now the cliffs are red col- 
ored, now of a grayish white. Here a solitary pinnacle soars upward 
like a delicately formed cathedral tower ; and again the enclosing 
walls hug the road for miles in unbroken masses. The contour of the 
palisades is closely followed, the river is constantly in sight, and its 
rumble is ever audible. Half way through the caiion, the (iunnison 
turns into a still deeper gorge to the right, and the road continues by 
the side of Cimarron creek, which leads to where the cliffs are more 
rugged still, and whose sides are filled with clinging vines and stunted 
pines and cedars. The regign becomes darker and gloomier, while 
the creek flows over its rocky bed, and among granite boulders, with 
a rumble that fills the gorge with deafening echoes. 

Escaping from the canon, the road pursues its westward course 
under an open sky, until the Wasatch mountains of Utah are reached. 
First comes Cedar divide, climbed by steep grades, and from whose 
summit an extended view is had of the Uncompahgre valley, the 
river which flows down its centre, and the San Juan mountains in 
the distance. The snow-tipped peaks of this range form the southern 
limits of the Uncompahgre valley, the rich agricultural section of 
the Ute reservation, and, from whatever point seen, are grand, beau- 
tiful and full of picturesque sublimity. Montrose is reached after 
descending from the divide. Following the Uncompahgre, west of 
Montrose, the road traverses a valley filled with rich farm land to 
Delta, and to Grand Junction, after which a veritable desert is 
entered. Low, treeless, dry and neglected wastes extend before 
one for nearly a hundred and fifty miles. The traveler is on an 
inland sea, where the winds have formed billows of sand, and the 
earth is caked by the heat of summer. And yet the ride is not 
devoid of interest. There is a constant fascination in studying the 
unfamiliar scenes, "and later the Sierra La Sal mountains rise before 
one in all their beauty of outline. Turning northwest, the road 
approaches the Wasatch mountains. Soon Price river is crossed, a 
tributary to the Green, and later Castle valley is entered, where 
there is more vegetation, and considerable cultivation. 

At the extreme end of this valley, and reached after long twistings 
and turnings among the foot-hills of the range, stands Castle Gate, lead- 
ing into the very heart of the Wasatch mountains, and formed by two 
immense towers of red sandstone which have a sheer descent of nearly 




-<t: 



Walker^sJdpera House, 



SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 19 

five hundred feet, and are severed off-shoots from the chffs behind 
them. At the base of the mighty pillars which, 

" * * * Like giants stand 
To sentinel enchanted land " 

runs Price river, flowing over sunken ledges, and through a thick 
growth of underbush. The gate posts are like the prows of two im- 
mense ships, and are filled with cracks and seams and deep holes 
which the waters of long ago have worn in the soft and crumbling 
sides. They are separated barely enough to allow the road and the 
stream to pass between, and are so high that, looking at them from 
their base they seem ready to fall headlong upon the observer. Once 
through the narrow way, and climbing the steep grades of Price river 
canon, the road follows first one stream and then another, and all the 
while there are unbroken forests, vari-colored rocks, clear waters, 
green meadows, tangled brush, and vistas of distant, snowy peaks, 
which render the journey one of continual pleasure. The scenery 
constantly changes. Here it is wild, and the eye can rove over a vast 
extent of country ; and again the traveler is shut in by low cliffs, or is 
surrounded only by verdant stretches, which are as soft and beautiful 
as any of the vales of England. At Soldier Summit, on the very top 
of the range, the road takes its eagle-like plunge down the western 
slope, and after emerging from the various gorges encountered, enters 
Utah valley, and is almost within sight of Salt Lake City. 

The view from this side of the range is one of incomparable 
loveliness. Eastward are the high peaks which have just been crossed, 
and whose grandeur is now more than ever before apparent. At one's 
feet lies Utah basin, and beyond it, to the north, Salt Lake valley, 
girded by high mountains- As far as the eye can see there are rich 
meadows. Towns nestle in the midst of green groves, the river 
Jordan is displayed its entire length, and the lake itself, with mount- 
ains rising from its very shores, reflects in the clear depth the fleecy 
clouds, the tree-covered slopes, and the distant peaks of snow. Every- 
thing is fresh, green, soft and beautiful. Cattle feed in the valleys ; 
there are waving fields of golden grain ; and the Wasatch range 
on the east, and the Oquirrh on the west, send forth tall spires which 
are capped with white, or have their sides covered with pines, maples, 
ash and willows. By the side of the lake stands Prove, a favorite 



20 SALT LAKE CLTY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 

watering place, and one with many attractions. At Bingham Junction 
branches of the road extend to Alta and Bingham, two important 
mining towns of the Territory, but the main hne continues up Jordan 
valley and soon reaches the famous Mormon metropolis. 

Salt Lake City is built on the lower slopes of a mesa running 
down from the Wasatch mountains toward the shores of the Great 
Salt Lake. Back of the town rises the Wasatch range, broken here 
into many sized cones and deep, verdant cafions. Beyond the valley 
are the indistinct outlines of more mountains, while to the west rises 
the sloping, wood-covered Oquirrh range, ending abruptly in the 
north at the shores of the lake. The city itself is a place of wide 
streets, well-built houses, shade trees, trim gardens and long avenues. 
The public buildings are mostly owned by the Mormons, and add 
much to the beauty of the town. Indeed, Young and his followers 
must have had an unusual amount of good taste. Not only did they 
select as a site for their city a mesa which commands an extended 
view, but they planned that all streets should run at right angles to 
one another ; and, consequently, there are formed all over the city 
squares of green sward filled with trees, private dwellings and stores. 
This regularity of design is noticed at the very first. Everything is 
free, wide, light and open. The sun has unlimited freedom, and its 
warm rays are rarely excluded by high walls or narrow ways. It is a 
very common practice to compare the city to Edinburgh, or some 
thriving New England village, but after all, the fact remains that no 
other place is exactly like it. Salt Lake City has an Arcadian sim- 
plicity, but is never commonplace. The public buildings, the stores, 
the homes, all have a peculiar beauty and attractiveness of their own. 
They are light-colored, clean and pretty. No grim stains of smoke 
have soiled, no dull hues surround them. The private homes have 
an air of solid comfort, and are in the midst of bright green lawns, 
flower beds, and an abundance of shade trees. Down the sides of 
the streets run fresh streams of water, which have come from the 
mountains, and which carry off all the city refuse. The climate is 
delightfully free from nearly all impurities, and the air is invigorating 
and full of health-giving properties. In summer the days are 
rarely uncomfortably hot, and winter is robbed of its usual terrors by 
the encircling ranges, which serve to protect the valley and the city 
from the cold winds of other regions. In early spring, the trees, 



SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 21 

shrubs and various vines convert Salt Laice into a veritable bower of 
greenness ; and in the fall, the colorings brought by the frost are as 
varied as the hues of a rainbow, and may be seen stretching far up 
the sides of the mountains, and filling with prismatic lights the neigh- 
boring parks and canons. But during all seasons of the year, the 
mighty hills, thrown into every imaginable shape by some terrible 
convulsion of nature, never lose their beauty or their grandeur. The 
pointed cones, tipped with purest layers of snow ; the long, sloping 
sides ; the wooded gorges ; and the serrated lengths, stretching far 
into a shadowy distance, change their colorings with every hour of 
the day. Rosy when the sun first flashes its light upon them at early 
morning, they are brown at noonday, and purple at evening when the 
# day is done and the sun suiks into its rest behind them. Now the 
storm clouds toss and roll about the higher peaks, and anon the 
pointed cones are sharply outlined against a deep blue, high arched 
sky. Nor are the ranges ever the same in their shapes. To-day a 
summit has one appearance, when seen in a certain light, and to-mor- 
row it takes another and different one. Now there is a hazy softness 
which hides all ugly scars and forms a compact mass, and again the 
air becomes so crisp and clear that all the rocks and deep, dark canons, 
the isolated peaks, and the wood-covered projections, are displayed 
and magnified, and converted to twice their usual size. The mount- 
ains of Utah are to the people of the Territory what the sea is to 
those who live upon its shores. And to the residents of Salt Lake 
City, the Wasatch and the Oquirrh ranges are objects of devoted 
admiration and love. 

The population of the city is about 25,000, and the business, 
wholesale and retail, is very large in proportion to the number of 
inhabitants. It is from Salt Lake City that the smaller towns and 
multitudinous mining camps of the Territory draw their supplies, 
and since mining has made such rapid progress as a business, the 
trade of the city has scored a corresponding increase, and is to-day 
in a most satisfactory condition, both as regards volume and profits. 
The principal business houses are on Temple street, and are in many 
cases elegantly appointed structures, having a solidity and size which 
are surprising in a city so far west and so young. There are also 
many business blocks on the streets which run off at right angles 
to Temple, and it is hard to find one which is ordinary or com- 



2 2 SALT LAKE CLTY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 

monplace in its appearance. The residences of the city are, in most 
instances, situated on the higher slopes of the bench or spur of the 
mountains on which the city is built, although there is no one particular 
section of the city limits which seems to have been adopted for homes. 
Some of the finest private dwellings are in the southern districts, and 
others are scattered promiscuously about, and are evidently built 
where individual taste has dictated. There seems to be no aristocratic 
quarter, and the homes of the rich and of the poor are, in most 
cases, side by side. Light-colored brick is generally used in building, 
only a few exceptions being made with wood and stone. But no 
matter how lowly or plain the house may be, the trailing vines, the 
latticed porches, the broad steps and the flowers rob it of all harshness, 
and render each cottage picturesque. 

The public buildings are numerous, large, and are often possessed 
of considerable architectural grandeur. The first in importance, and 
which all strangers visit before they are a day in the city, are those 
situated in Temple block and known as the Tabernacle, New 
Temple, and Assembly Hall. Temple block contains ten acres of 
ground, and was set apart in the early days of the city for the erection 
of churches and other buildings connected with the practice of 
Mormonism. The New Temple, which is still being built, may be 
found by walking up Temple street to a gateway that leads into 
Temple square. This edifice ranks first in interest among the public 
buildings of the city, and will, when finished, be one of the most 
remarkable structures in America. The length of the building is 
two hundred feet, and its width one hundred. The foundations, of 
reddish quartzite of great hardness, are laid sixteen feet below the 
surface of the earth, and are sixteen feet in thickness. The walls 
are nine feet nine inches thick, and are of a light gray granite, quar- 
ried from Little Cottonwood cafion, in the Wasatch range. It is 
designed to have three towers stand at each end of the building, the 
center ones, east and west, rising higher than the others, and to an 
altitude of two hundred feet. Each will contain a circular stairway, 
winding around a column four feet in diameter. Allegorical designs 
will form the ornamentation. The corner stone was laid April 6, 1853, 
and it is estimated that thirty years will be required to complete the 
work. Over $3,000,000 have already been expended. The huge pile 




*. ill n 1 * 




SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 25 

is added to daily by scores of busy workmen, and already gives 
promise of being a source of pride to those who are building it. 

Diagonally from the Temple is the famous Mormon Tabernacle, 
a huge, round-roofed structure which forms a prominent object 
in all views of the city, and is the first building seen when looking 
down upon the town from any of the surrounding hills. Its dimen- 
sions are 233 x 133 feet, inside measurement, and it consists of one 
great roof, which rests on forty-six pillars of red sandstone, and 
springs, with a single stride from side to side, and from end to end. 
The building is elliptical, and the inside height from ceiling to floor 
is seventy feet. The roof consists of ponderous lattice-work, ten 
feet through, heavily bolted together, and is a great triumph of 
engineering skill. Inside, the west end is occupied by a rostrum, or 
stand, with triple rows of seats rising one above the other. The 
highest of these was intended originally for President Brigham 
Young and his two councilors ; that immediately in front for the 
twelve apostles ; and the lower one for bishops or elders. In front of 
these is the communion table whence sacrament is issued to the con- 
gregation every Sabbath afternoon. To the rear of all, and immedi- 
ately under the grand organ, are seats for the choir, which frequently 
numbers one hundred singers, and is one of the finest in the country. 
Traversing the entire hall, with the exception of the west end, is a 
spacious gallery sufiflciently large to seat 3,750 people. The entire 
seating capacity of the building, including the stand and platforms, is 
13,452. Including standing room, it will accommodate 15,000. There 
are twenty doors to the tabernacle, nearly all of them nine feet wide, 
all opening outwards, and the immense congregation can be let out 
in one and a half minutes. The acoustics are astonishingly perfect, 
the most minute sound multiplying and permeating the entire hall. 

South of the Tabernacle is a Gothic edifice, known as the Assem- 
bly Hall, constructed of granite chips from the blocks composing the 
new Temple. The outside measurements are 120x68 feet, the 
height of the square being ^.^ feet. The roof is ornamented by 
twe'nty graceful minarets, each twenty-four feet high, while a central 
spire has an altitude of 126 feet. The interior consists of a spacious 
assembly room, surrounded by a broad gallery. The ceiling is forty 
feet above the floor. The room will seat about 4,000 people, and is 
designed for winter, and for evening meetings, when the tabernacle 



26 SALT LAKE CLTY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 

is too dark or cold. The internal finishings are quite elaborate, the 
seats and wainscoting being neatly grained, and the walls calci- 
mined in tints. The ceiling is embellished with various historical 
and biblical subjects in fresco. 

In the northwest corner of Temple square is a plain, yellow- 
tinged building, in which the marriages among the Mormons take place. 
Only those who are converts to the Mormon faith know what is 
contained within the four walls of the little house, but the curious 
are ever ready to gaze at it, and to speculate concerning its interior 
arrangements and life. 

Across the street, to the east, from Temple square, is another 
walled enclosure, in which are the homes of Brigham Young, and 
the several buildings constituting the tithing department of the 
Mormon church. The tithing yard resembles a New England 
farm yard, and is filled with every variety of garden produce, and 
with every species of animal. It is here that a tenth of every man's 
income has to be brought for the support and benefit of the church. 
A little around the corner from the yard is the Lion House, and 
next it the Bee Hive, two yellow-tinged, dormer-windowed buildings, 
in one of which, the Lion House, President Young had his office, 
and in the other lived with his several wives. The ofifice is now 
occupied by President Taylor, and is accessible to visitors. It is a 
large, comfortably furnished, low studded room, hung with pictures of 
deceased and living dignitaries of the church, and resembles the 
office of some rich country squire. Next to the Bee Hive is 
Eagle Gate, ornamented by a huge gilded eagle, resting on massive 
beams that rest again on four granite posts. It is by passing through 
this gate, and up the narrow street leading from it, that one reaches 
the grave of Brigham Young. The granite slab covering the 
remains is inclosed by an ornamental railing, in accordance with the 
desires of the deceased president, who wished to be buried within 
sight and sound of the square, where he had passed so many busy 
days. 

Salt Lake City is well supplied with churches. The Methodists, 
Episcopalians, and Presbyterians have erected suitable buildings for 
worship, and St. Marks Cathedral is one of the notable edifices of 
the town. Nor do the people lack for amusement. Before his death 
President Young erected a large and handsome theatre, and later 



SALT LAKE CLTY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 29 

the Walker Brothers, men who have done much to beautify the city, 
have built their beautiful opera house, known by their name, 
which is situated half a block west of East Temple street, on Second 
South street. It is one of the finest and most elegantly appointed 
theatres in the West, and cost nearly $150,000. It is 165 feet in 
depth by 65 feet in width, and the height from floor to ceiling is 70 
feet. The seating capacity is large, and the fagade of the building 
is of massive proportions. The theatre is lighted by gas, and by 
electricity, and warmed by steam. No expense has been spared to 
furnish everything that can contribute to the comfort and pleasure of 
the patrons. The decorations in the main body of the house are 
elaborate and tasteful. There is a rich simplicity in the frescoes 
and upholstery, and in the carved woodwork, which reflect greatly to 
the credit of the owners, and which delights every visitor. The 
stage is large, and the scenery ample. The auditorium, with its rows 
of boxes, and richly upholstered chairs, reminds one of the Madison 
Square theatre in New York. 

The scenic attractions in the immediate neighborhood of Salt 
Lake City are attractive and varied, possessing characteristics 
peculiar to themselves, and which are never - failing sources of 
pleasure to all who visit them. Two miles and a half east of Temple 
square, and reached by a good road which winds by easy grade up 
the sloping sides of the mountain, is Fort Douglas, a national post 
filled with soldiers, and so located as to command an extended view 
of the city, the valley, and the neighboring ranges. The officers' 
quarters form a crescent at the head of a plaza., and Salt Lakers 
enjoy nothing better than a half holiday under the trees at the fort, 
listening to the military music, and enjoying the unequaled prospect. 

Still another popular ramble is that to the crest of Ensign Peak, 
a high and rock-crowned hill, which forms the northern protector of 
the city, and is so near that in the morning it throws its shadow over 
the houses clustered at its base. A bridle path leads nearly to the 
summit, but the highest point is reached only after hard climbing. 
But the view pays for the exertion, for when one stands upon the 
very top, the scene unfolded is one of such exquisite beauty that 
words are inadequate to picture it. At one's very feet, and so near 
that he can look into its chimneys, and down upon the flat roofs 
of the houses, lies the city, its busy hum of life creeping faintly to 



3° 



SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 



the ears of the beholder, and all the gardens, and wide, shaded 
streets revealed. To the right, ten miles or more away, and nestling 
in the arms of blue-tinted mountains, may be seen the lake, silent, 
calm, and heedless of the beauty in which it lives ; to the left, and 
pressing their huge shoulders upon the valley are the Wasatch and 
Oquirrh peaks, grand, stately, and deeply torn by canons and narrow 
gorges. The lower slopes are richly covered with dark forests, but 
higher up the summits show banks of snow, gleaming brightly under 
the rays of the sun. Westward, extending for sixty miles, are 
the Jordan and Utah Lake valleys, dim and haze-obscured. At their 
extreme, and where 

' Some blue peaks in the distance rose,' 

a glimpse is had of proud old Mount Nebo, grandest, highest, cold- 
est of all the Wasatch heights. Above one arches the sky, blue, vast, 
and only dotted here and there by fleecy clouds, which throw upon 
the valleys below irregular patches of light and shade. Mountain, 
meadow, river and lake greet one on every side. The valleys are 
green and fertile, while over all their wide expanse farm joins farm, 
and deep rich colors are formed by the gardens and fields of waving 
grain. Jordan valley is seen to lie like a garden, and the ranges are 
its protecting walls. 

" Half drowned in sleepy peace it lay, 
As satiate with the boundless play 
Of sunshine on its green array." 

The lake which dots, and the stream which waters it, shine like 
purest crystals, or seem like a thread of silver, while the clear-cut 
hills of blue stand riveted to their places by the beauty of the scene. 

The Great Salt Lake is an attractive spot to visit. It lies west- 
ward and about nine miles from the city, but the absence of all inter- 
vening trees or houses allows its waters to be seen from nearly all parts 
of the town. There is always an air of mystery about the birth and life 
of Salt Lake, which the most learned can not dispel, no matter how 
able their theories may be. The water is strongly impregnated with 
salt, and is of such density that the surface is rarely ruffled, and the 
immense body lies simmering in the sunlight all the day like a thing 
bereft of life. No matter how enticingly the neighboring mountains 



,/;^|.',l:|::r'! 




4^ 



SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-IVAYS. t^-j^ 

maj' coquette with it — flashing down from their proud heights a thou- 
sand gleaming hues — the lake itself gives back no answer, but dull, 
listless and heavy, sulks in its bed and refuses to acknowledge the 
outside world. There are two lines of railway by which one may 
reach the low shores, and enjoy a bath in the warm waters of the 
lake, one being by the Utah Western Railway to Lake Point, Garfield 
and Black Rock, and the other the Denver & Rio Grande to Lake 
Shore. During the season, bathing in the lake is a novel and pleasing 
experience. It is almost impossible to sink, the water is so dense and 
buoyant, and but very little practice is needed for one to become 
quite an expert swimmer. The surroundings of the lake at its south- 
ern extremity are picturesque, and there are ample bathing accommo- 
dations. Standing on the shore near' Black Rock, there is a wide 
prospect unfolded to the gaze. The waters stretch away to the north- 
west until lost in the hazy distance, and nearer at hand the two huge 
mountain islands rear their bared heads and shoulders from out the 
quiet depths. There are rarely any boats in sight, and the shores are 
void of greenness and fresh foliage. 

Just to the right of Ensign peak is City Creek canon, a brush- 
lined way leading into the Wasatch range, which is deserving of a 
much prettier name than the one which has been given to it. The 
roadway clings closely to the sides of the cliffs, which rise to great 
heights above it, and there are ever-changing vistas of fantastically 
fashioned crags and snow-capped peaks. Winding down the center 
of the ravine is a creek of fresh, clear water, which dances along with 
sparkling glee under the overhanging brushwood, or is lashed into 
mimic fury as it falls over obstructing ledges of rock. To the east 
of this gorge is another, known as Emigration caiion, through which 
Young and his foot-sore followers marched, and from which they had 
their first glimpse of the Jordan valley and the site of the city which 
they afterwards erected. At the head of City Creek canon, a bridle 
path leads to the summit of Black mountain, a high peak which is 
wooded to nearly its very top, and which commands a view of mount- 
ains, ravines, forests and distant valleys. 

Within the limits of the city, and only a short distance from 

Temple street, are the Warm Springs and bath houses. The water 

is strongly impregnated with sulphur, and hiis a temperature of 102" 

F.; it is also charged with medicinal qualities which render it invalu- 

3 



34 



SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BV-IVAYS. 



able as a corrective of many ailments. The bath houses are large, 
and are supplied with tanks and set tubs. A short distance to the 
north are the Hot .Springs, the waters of which have a temperature 
of i8o° to 190^ F. 

On Temple street, half way between the Walker House and the 
Tabernacle, is the Masonic library, in which there is a large and 
carefully made collection of standard works. Opposite the south 
gate of Temple square — and these various places of interest are only 
a few of the many which the city has — is a museum which is well 
worth inspection. The collection is of special interest to those who 
desire to know more of Utah, as it represents many of the ores, birds 
and insects native to the Territory. The arrangement of specimens 
is remarkably well done, and the curiosities are deserving of careful 
study. 

Salt Lake City is an interesting place to visit. It is full of 
attractions and curious bits of architecture. It is situated within easy 
reach of many natural parks and caiions, a visit to which is calculated 
to show one more beauties of nature than he had dreamed existed. 
The by-ways of Utah, the isolated corners away from the railroads, 
are poetic chips of nature, with scener_y full of strange contrasts 
to that found in Eastern States, and possessed of grandeur — almost 
sublime beauty. There is a freedom of style and a boldness of 
execution in these remote regions which appeals to the imagination 
so strongly that a new sense of pleasure is experienced, and a new 
joy given, which can not be created by other scenes. Massive mount- 
ains ; vast virgin forests ; dizzy cataracts ; crystal lakes, and grassy 
levels, meet one at every step. Here the trees are parted, and a 
glimpse is had between them of the central valleys of the Territory 
lying far below ; and again there is only a wilderness surrounding 
the visitor. In American Fork cafion, penetrating the Wasatch range 
near Provo, an old mill, crumbling to pieces with age, stands by the 
side of the creek, and is half hidden by the rank growth of trees 
and shrubs which surround it. Following the stream past it, the 
solid walls of granite which press back the mountains crowd closer 
toward one another, and the way is barely wide enough for the creek 
to find even a rocky bed. Man has done nothing here to disturb the 
beauty nature has wrought. Centuries have passed, and only a 
tumbled rock, lying now at the bottom of the gully and covered with 




IN SPANISH FORK CANON. 



SALT LAKE CLTY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 37 

clinging vines, marks the progress of time. There is absolute rest 
for one while in the Utah canons ; the outside world grows far away; 
the air is cool, crisp and invigorating ; and the fragrant perfumes 
from the singing pines teem with new life, and bring a healthful glow 
to the palest cheek. Wander where he will among the Wasatch 
wilds, and a man is alone with nature, at liberty to enjoy undisturbed 
her beauties, and to gain wisdom in studying her ways. 

Parley's Park, and Big and Little Cottonwood canons, vie with 
each other in beauty and sublimity. All are within easy reach of the 
city proper, and Little Cottonwood and Bingham canons are traversed 
by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. At the head of Parley's 
Park a hotel has been erected ; and Alta, famous from having had 
the Emma mine, nestles under the shadow of high peaks at the end 
of Little Cottonwood, and is in the very midst of a wild, snowy 
region. Bingham is a mining town in Bingham canon, and the heavy 
thud of the crushing machines resounds throughout the narrow 
gorge. In any of the cailons there will always be found an abundance 
of water, the low murmur of which sings an accompaniment to 
the sighing of the wind through the pines and the maples, while the 
rich profusion of vari-colored rocks give a wealth of coloring which 
even the artist's brush is incapable of reproducing. Here there is a 
weird wildness ; mighty torrents, born among the dark basaltic ledges 
of the higher peaks, and nursed by the warm rays of the early sum- 
mer sunt have torn their way to the base of the range and left a 
ruined waste behind them. There are gaunt, dead trees, leaning 
against their living neighbors, or lying where they fell when over- 
thrown by some fierce storm, and huge masses of rock which the frosts 
of winter have hurled from the edges of the deeply scarred walls of 
the canon. Now there is a cathedral or a castle, with towers and win- 
dows, formed by the action of time ; and anon isolated pinnacles 
reach into the cloudless sky, and are as delicately formed as the tower 
standing on the banks of the river Arno. There is constant variety ; 
a wilderness succeeds a garden, and a narrow rock-strewn pathway 
leads to a forest-girded park, where there is a wide expanse of bright 

green turf. 

But Utah must be seen to be appreciated, and studied to be en- 
joyed. Wealth will come to few from the golden treasures which the 
by-ways give forth, but pleasure will come to the many as they wan- 



^S SALT LAKE CITY AND UTAH BY-WAYS. 

der from the cities and towns into the places nature has so lavishly 
endowed. Soft, blue, clear and beautiful is the sky ; healthful is the 
climate, fresh ^,re the breezes. Long neglected, for years unthought 
of, Utah is entering a new life, when its beauties will be known in 
countless homes, and when descriptions of its scenery will delight 
untold thousands. • 




epcpFamcGl Wihl^ yNahupal OgIop^- 



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C C. CHENEY, Prest. C. A. CHAPMAN, Treas. 



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^^fp-^ ^■,..,..,..^^^ - DEALERS IN 




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G-, S, ERH; Prnprietar, 

J H WINSLOW. Chief Clerk. 



SA LT LAKE C ITY. 



This is the largest Hotel in Salt Lake City, fill roDins are large, light 

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J. H. VAN HORN, Chief Clerk. 



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SALT LAKE 



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1236-38 SECOND SOUTH ST., SILT LIKE CITY, UTSH, 



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PRDPRIETORS, 



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